A conditioner has to possess a few qualities in order to be useful.
It should be acidic.
Recall how we said the flaky skin cells on the cuticle contained ions that were negatively charged. To aid in the conditioner's adhesion to the hair shaft, aid in the scales' flattening, and lessen static cling, we need chemicals with a positive charge.
The hair shaft needs to be moistened.
Here is how those traits appear in function.
WATER
Water is usually the first component stated in a conditioner, just as it is in a shampoo. It accounts for the largest portion of the formula.
FATTENING LIQUORS AND QUATS
Fatty alcohols and quaternary ammonium salts, or "QUATS" for short, have a positive nitrogen atom that aids in the conditioner's binding to the negatively charged flaky skin cells on your hair cuticles. This makes it possible for the lotion to cover your hair shafts and lessen static electricity. Cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl alcohol, and glycol distearate—technically not an alcohol but structurally comparable to it—are the most often used fatty alcohols. The QUATS behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride are two examples.
OLIVE OIL AND BUTTER
Because they help hydrate and nourish hair shafts, conditioners often include plant-based essential oils and kinds of butter. Mango butter and glycerin, for example, are humectants, which means they draw moisture from the air and into the hair. Others, like coconut oil, provide a barrier that keeps water from leaving while also moisturizing the hair.
COMPOUNDS AND POLYMERS OF SILICONE
Because they create a thin, greasy layer around the hair shaft that reflects light and gives hair a glossy look, silicone compounds are often employed in conditioners. Additionally, silicones lubricate the hair, making it simpler to comb and less prone to tangling. Dimethicone, amodimethicone, dimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane are examples of silicones that are often utilized.
A little word on silicones
In the skincare and hair care sectors, silicones have a mixed reputation.
Since silicone coats the hair shaft, holding moisture within and quickly giving hair a lustrous, healthy look, there is no proof that they are hazardous. Silicone's ability to provide quick fulfilment may be highly alluring.
The problem is that many silicones, including the most widely used dimethicone, are not water soluble, making it challenging to rinse them with water. Silicones are infamous for drawing oil and debris to themselves like a magnet. All of this may make your hair feel greasy and unclean more quickly, requiring more frequent washings and product usage. This might eventually result in an unhealthy cycle of overwashing, which can leave hair frizzy and dry.
Utilizing silicones is a matter of taste. Some individuals utilize silicone-containing items with excellent success. Because we believe there are better options available, such as glycerin and coconut oil, we have decided not to utilize them in Beardbrand products.
THICKENERS
Technically, the thickness and texture of a conditioner have no bearing on how effective it is — as long as it adheres to your hair and doesn't slip off as soon as you apply it. Thickeners are added to the conditioner to make it extra creamy since a thicker product feels great and is preferred by consumers.
PH MODIFIERS AND ADJUSTERS
Keep in mind that hair looks best when its pH is between 4.5 and 5.5. Therefore, conditioners often contain a low pH to aid in bringing the hair's equilibrium back. To correct the pH level, several substances are applied. Other modifiers alter the conditioner's colour, usually making it opaque or pearly white. Why? According to years of market research, consumers desire it.
PRESERVATIVES
These are included to prevent germs from growing and extend the shelf life of the product. Less than 5% of formulations usually include them.
ADDITIONS
This is the point at which conditioners get all types of additions. Frequently, they are only flavourless substances.
The main point to remember is that water and a mixture of fatty alcohols, QUATS, essential oils, butter, and silicone compounds or polymers make up every conditioner composition.
Between brands and varieties of conditioner, the proportion of each of these constituent kinds varies significantly. While some conditioners include a lot of silicones, others have a higher proportion of oils and butter. Because of this, some formulas work better on certain types of hair than others.
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