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What Are the Different Types of Jadau Polki Jewellery?

vijay kangan
What Are the Different Types of Jadau Polki Jewellery?

Jadau polki jewellery is a traditional Indian jewellery that features uncut diamonds set into gold or silver with precious stones. 'Jadau' refers to the gold and silver metal used while 'polki' refers to the uncut diamonds used in this style of jewellery. Over the centuries, Jadau polki jewellery from Rajasthan, Gujarat and Varanasi has acquired worldwide fame for its exquisite craftsmanship and alluring designs. This article explores the various types of authentic Jadau Polki jewellery.

Types of Jadau Polki Jewellery

There are primarily four types of ornate Jadau polki jewellery crafted in India, each having its distinctive style and design. 

Kundan Jadau Jewellery

Kundan jadau features gold foil underneath the uncut diamonds to enhance their brilliance. Owing to the gold foundation, Kundan jadau jewellery has a lightweight and delicate look. Intricate Meenakari enamel work is done on the gold surface around the polki to accentuate its beauty. Favoured for its regal charm, Kundan jadau is perfect for weddings and festivals.

Meenakari Jadau Jewellery

Meenakari refers to the vibrant enamelling technique used to embellish jadau polki jewels. Two famous Meenakari styles used are:

Jaipur Meenakari:

This uses bold colours like green, red and yellow over golden hues on the enamel. Jaipur Meenakari jadau has an opulent look. 

Varanasi Meenakari: 

Delicate floral motifs in white and pastel pink define the Varanasi Meenakari. It has a more subtle, feminine charm. Filigree designs may also be engraved on this jadau jewellery.  

Thewa Jadau Jewellery 

Originating from Pratapgarh in Rajasthan, Thewa involves fusing intricately embossed gold sheet onto molten glass. When the glass cools down, it is encrusted with uncut diamonds and coloured stones. Heavier than other jadau styles, Thewa polki jewels have an antique royal persona.

Lac/Lacquer Jadau Jewellery

This unique jadau style blends Japanese lacquer craft with classic polki. Uncut diamonds are set in lacquer bangles and rings to create lightweight, glossy ornaments. Lac jadau range is budget-friendly while retaining the essence of polki sparkle. 

Popular Jadau Polki Jewellery Pieces 

Jadau encompasses both bridal and occasional jewellery. Some top choices are:


Opulent multi-layered polki necklaces glittering with uncut diamonds are hot favourites for weddings. The intricate Kundan and Meenakari work elevates their grandeur.  


Lacquer bangles with polki stones infused with colours or Thewa glass bangles dotted with diamonds make stunning additions to one's jewelry wardrobe.


Long Kundan jadau earrings crafted using polki and detailed with hangings pearls and chains look majestic. Contemporary jadau earrings in Thewa and lacquer are also quite popular. 


Intricate lacquer cocktail rings and enamelled Meenakari rings with uncut diamonds make great gifts for anniversaries or as souvenirs from travels. 

Maang Tikkas:

Bridal maang tikkas designed using polki and Kundan add unmatched sparkle to the bride's solah shringar. Mini polki tikkas are ideal for festivals too.


Pearl or polki diamond encrusted Naths crafted in lacquer, Thewa or Kundan make elegant nose pins for the modern woman.

Design Variations in Jadau Polki Jewelry

From dazzling florals to geometric jaalis, Jadau Polki jewelry depicts varied influences through its masterfully carved design motifs.

Floral Designs

Intricate vine, leaf and flower motifs inspired by nature define Jadau Polki jewellery, with tiny gold tendrils wrapping around inlays of Polki stones. Bright additions of coloured gemstones often dot floral patterns.

Geometric Patterns

Symmetrical geometric arrangements and jaali cutwork patterns form a recurring motif, with Polki nestled between the angular designs. Hexagons, triangles, nets and checkerboard motifs glorify the geometric beauty of lines and angles.

Animal Motifs

Unique Jadau carvings showcase peacocks, elephants, birds and other animals with inserted Polkis adding sparkle to each masterpiece.

Traditional Indian Motifs

Rich patterns celebrating Indian traditions feature in Jadau Polki necklaces, earrings, rings etc. These include ornate paisleys, medallions, palanquins and temple carvings highlighting superior Indian craftsmanship.


For centuries, skilled Indian artisans have been handcrafting opulent Jadau polki jewellery which features alluring designs of uncut diamonds set against colourful enamelling. Each Jadau style, be it Kundan, Lacquer or Thewa, has its distinctive charm and regalia. Polki ornaments make cherished heirlooms passed down through generations. So discover the wondrous world of dazzling Jadau polki jewels on your next visit to India!

vijay kangan
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